Patzcuaro - Another Beautiful but Chilly Colonial Town

Patzcuaro, Michoacan, 4 - 7 May, 2009

It is good to be traveling on the cuota (toll) roads again! After a small detour first thing, getting out of Chiconquac, we had smooth (but expensive) sailing all the way to Morelia. Just when we thought that we had the hang of Mexican navigation, road construction and a morbid lack of signage threw us back into the state of insecurity that only  Mexican highways can do. We did manage to find a Mega store (Remy loves Mega- it kicks Walmart's butt!) and the road to Patzcuaro.

We found ourselves at Villa Patqzuaro, an absolutely beautiful resort offering camping and bungalow accommodation in a rancho setting. The tariff was a bit high (M$300, 30 bucks), but the boutique quality amenities were worth it. New bathrooms and showers, a kitchen building with wood-burning fireplace, an outdoor office space for wifi use by the pool, and an adobe events building with beautiful wood framing and floors were all available to campers. We had read a warning in the camping guide that children might not be allowed, but that was not the case. There were a lot of rules, posted in all the above-mentioned places, some of which referred to children, but to have written that they were not allowed in the guide was slightly irresponsible. Once again, the guide gets you into the rough neighbourhood, but lacks precision and clarity in the details.

The first morning we woke up, we were aware that the elevation of Patzcuaro, 7500' above sea level, is slightly greater than that of San Cristobal- it was cool! Liz was able to participate in a yoga class that was being held in the events building. There were two other RV's and a tent occupied by a backpacker from France. We got to know everybody in the campground in short order- Florian, from France, was waiting to hook up with friends from Europe. The couple from Washington and Texas, in one of the largest campers on the back of one of the largest pickups we had ever seen. They were full-timers, and had managed to make it as far as Patzcuaro without the Church & Church camping guide! She insisted on telling Remy about her enema at the local hospital and how cheap it had been (M$100, 10 bucks) compared to what it would have cost in the US. They also shared some of the wheelbarrow-load of papaya that they had bought. Literally!

The other RV was occupied by Latifa, a single woman who has transplanted herself from Hawaii and hopes to set down some roots in Mexico. She has been a practicing naturopath since the '70's, and quickly proved to be very good company for all of us.

Our first day in town was actully spent out of town on a boat tour to Janitzio, an island in the middle of Lake Patzcuaro. M$40 (4 bucks) buys one return passage in a lancha (boat) for the 1/2 hour trip to the island. We bought ice cream on the boat and were serenaded by a mariachi band working for tips. The boat was relatively luxurious, as far as those things go, with a roof and windows, which we appreciated when the rain began. We were treated to a demonstration of traditional fishing techniques along the way and the captain did a full circuit of the island before delivering us to the dock.

On the boat we met Chloe, a rather intrepid Korean-American back packer who had left her investment banking job in Boston (probably a good time to leave that sort of job, considering the economy) to travel the world before settling in Australia. With her back pack, she joined us for the hike up the mountain that forms Janitzio Island to the monument at the top. Janitzio is apparently a bit of a destination to Mexicans during Day of the Dead festivities, but otherwise it is a tad depressing. The island is crowned with a 40 meter tall statue of Jose Morelos, one of the heroes of the War of Independence who used Janitzio as a stronghold during the war with Spanish Imperial forces in the 1700's. It is settled by Tarasco Indians, who were among the few that were able to repel Aztec aggression two centuries before, partly due to the technological advantage of copper weapons. We paid the 6 peso (60 cent) admission fee and climbed the statue up the inside, finally reaching the observation platform in the wrist of Morelos' uplifted right fist. This was made exciting by the state of Mexican safety engineering which has faithfully been retained since the statue was built in 1936- picture a steep circular stairway with no hand rail.

The remaining time was spent wandering the streets of Patzcuaro, which ranks right up there with San Cristobal for human scale and interest. We visited the woodcarving district, something for which Patzcuaro appears to be known, and saw some amazing wood shops worthy of a Harry Potter movie set. Liz and Remy spent quality time together on the Plaza Grande, sipping very good coffee while the boys killed zombies on the computer at a nearby internet cafe- hey, we all need our space sometimes! Patzcuaro presents an amazing shopping opportunity, as the surrounding towns all specialize in one of the many crafts on offer- copper, lacquer ware, pottery, musical instruments, weaving, etc., etc.

On our final night we headed into town with Latifa, first so Remy could offer advice on the purchase of a bicycle and then to have dinner together at the Pollita Feliz (not that it gives chickens anything to be happy about!). This street booth, set up on the Plaza Chica, offers for the Family Platter of the following for M$150 (15 bucks): 1 whole grilled chicken, carrots, cabbage salad, potatoes and about 10 enchiladas. It was so much that the five of us could not finish it! We had a wonderful time with Latifa, who appears to be scheming for some way to have us stay longer, or at the very least steal Remy from Liz!

Hollis fully developed the ear infection that had been contracted in the pool at Chiconquac, so we had to visit a doctor in town. For M$350 (35 bucks) we got the examination, free ear drops and a prescription for some more powerful drugs if the drops don't work. They didn't, so the next day Latifa shared with Hollis some of her precious stock of some awful-tasting Chinese herbal preparation. We knew that he was suffering from the ear because Hollis was readily willing to try it! We filled his prescription at a farmacia. While in town, we visited the Nuestra Senora de Salud (Our Lady of Health) Basilica, to which have been attributed many health cures, where Hollis purchased an ear-shaped milagro (a small metal figurine) and said a prayer at the altar of Our Lady. We are not sure which discipline to credit, but by the next morning, Hollis was cured!

-Remy