Chiapa de corzo to San Cristobal

Tuxla & Chiapa de Corzo, Oaxaca

April 16 - 17, 2009

Our van is in need of a small radiator hose replacement  so we stop in the very large city of Tuxla to have it looked after. We figure we can stock up on some groceries there too as they have all the big names we have grown to love.

Getting the hose replaced was fairly quick and painless except for the fact that they drained the radiator right there on the street with no obvious concern for where that fluid would eventually end up.

Getting groceries was a bit of an event as Walmart was featuring food things of the Chiapas area. The scene at the entrance to the store was somewhat like a trade show complete with long tables of yummy things to sample and a very loud mariachi band. We weren't sure wether to party or shop!

Upon our return to our van we discovered a severe air leak in the front right tire of the van. After circling the parking lot about 4 times trying to find the way out we eventually had to back out onto the major freeway with Liz stopping traffic long enough for Remy to make the exit. The tire place was back down the freeway which meant we had to cross 4 lanes of traffic , drive back to where we just came from, pull a U-turn across 2 lanes of traffic and drive up the steep driveway to the fix-it shop. Turns out we had a large bolt in the tire so we opted to purchase 2 new ones at a cost of about $400. We now have 4 brand new tires (our van has been good for the Mexican economy!).

On to Chiapa de Corzo  for the boat tour of Sumidero Canyon.

After our long, hot day of looking after the happy camper, none of us was up for the idea of camping at the boat launch for the night so we found the fanciest hotel in town and booked in there. It was a beautiful place with a lovely courtyard and a pool. It was  the perfect spot for a swim and a cold gin and tonic. Liz met a well-heeled woman from El Salvador  who lives in Los Angeles with her Mexican husband. They own a restaurant there and have offered to feed us when we make our way through California- awesome!

The boys are eager to watch a movie in the air conditioned room so we head out for a walk of the plaza to see the magnificent fountain said to resemble the Spanish crown. Built in the 1500's it is even more impressive than the photo. Lots of young people smooching in the park. Seems to be a very regular thing here in Mexico.

Up early we eat the worst breakfast EVER at a restaurant near the boat launch. Powdered milk for our coffee and pre toasted white  bread out of the bag- like at a factory in ANOTHER STATE ( Liz drew a line in the sand over this one and sent it back.) Bowens pancake could have been used as a door knocker.

We pile into the river boat with a bunch of Mexican tourists for the 2 hour tour up the man- made canyon and back. Some interesting sights to see like the stalactite that resembles a seahorse and the Christmas tree waterfall ( minus the water.) We both wonder how many villages were flooded to make way for the new electrical dam and subsequent boat tours. It was a fun trip though and a nice way to keep cool in the staggering heat.

This trip has been full of extremes and today is no exception. We left Chiapa de Corzo at 300m where the temp hovered around 35 degrees and ended up in San Cristobal at 2200m  where the evening temp was about 10 degrees and falling. The roller coaster ride through the mountains was absolutely stunning. We were amazed to see villages built on the tiniest and highest of ridges. We saw many of the indigenous woman walking along the highway wearing their traditional heavy black wool skirts and purple shawls carrying bundles of wood - used for heat- or selling fruit on the roadside. We have stepped into another world!

-Liz